The sea was playing magic, shimmering in a thousand sparkling mirrors of itself,
the sun, movement like a vibration, disappearing on the horizon,
two people appear out of this fragmented light – in a canoe –
they move fast into the still and aquamarine waters of the cave,
leaving no trail.
Today I did a spot of cooking, but first I took the bus to Victoria, only ten minutes away, and I searched for and found the Fish Shop where I bought one large steak of fresh tuna, and two fillets of ling, the man in the fish shop offered me a recipe for cooking the tuna, it’s a great recipe he said, you will need oregano and other items, and as he said it he added a bunch of fresh oregano to the bag of fish, all for only €7 which I thought was very reasonable. I then visited a vegetable stall, in Victoria these stalls are at the large car park near the bus terminal, and they are there most days. From what I can see the produce is very fresh. A friendly man helped me to a number of vegetables, as well as lemon, parsley, and an orange that I needed for my recipe. He added a bunch of free celery leaves to my other shopping free of charge, the herbs and vegetables smelled good. I love cooking with fresh herbs, and that is why I am enjoying the cooking quite a bit here, fresh fragrant herbs, especially oregano, rosemary, mint, basil, and sage, as well as tomatoes, olive oil, lemon, garlic, broad beans, green beans, and fish. I may add that the long type of onions also are delicious, I’ve been enjoying those here. To finish the tuna story, I made the marinade as instructed and cooked the fish according to the recipe, and it was really delicious.
The man at the vegetable stall also informed me that the local produce would be best if I was looking for organic, which of course I was and I told him that, and he was selling a lot of local produce which is very nice. Why would one import foods when they can be grown at home.
I was in a sort of garden centre shop as well this morning as I wanted to check what the situation is in Gozo regarding the use of ’roundup’ seeing that now it has been recognised by the WHO that the Glyphosate contained in roundup is a cancer causing ingredient. The nice girl that I was talking to did not know about these matters, she did say that yes they sold roundup and that it is needed as it is very hard to grow produce on Gozo, and this is the second person that tells me that. Some people that I encountered in the last few days have also told me that it would be impossible to grow organically on Gozo because of the drought, I wonder if I am overlooking something, as I never realised that you need more water to grow organically than with using fertilizer/pesticides. It is all very interesting to learn how other countries/people think about these matters.
The produce that we have enjoyed here a lot are the local honey. Depending on what month of the year it is, the honey will taste different and come from different plants. The prickly pear jam was something new to us, for me it is too sweet, but I just got to try new things, so we bought some. The basmatic vinegar of Gozo is delicious, I love it in a tomato dish. The capers, which are grown locally too, are lovely and add a kick to the mixture which all people of the Maltese islands love on toast. Joso, a nice woman I got to know in Malta, a neighbour of ours there, gave me this recipe for a nice breakfast, she told me to cup up some nice tomatoes, or use tomato paste and put that on toast, then add capers and some basil, it does taste delicious.
Another woman in the shop the other day showed me how the Gozitans use their herbs, also mixed with tomatoes and olive oil, left for half an hour to soak it all up, and then served with capers and toasted bread. I am sure that this food is all very healthy, it does taste nice that is for sure.
I still wanted to add some photos of what we were discussing in my last post, about the swales, because today I took some pics in the park which is in the middle of the town of Victoria. A lovely and well kept place where it strikes you how much attention is given to each individual plant or tree. I saw how they use the swales, and water harvesting. They dig a ditch around the plant or tree individually, which then keeps any water near the roots and lets the plant utilize the water to the full. They also make ditches along plants so that even more water is harvested. Though these photos I took in a park, I am sure these methods are being practised in general.
Just a few examples above. Below an example of terraced crop growing, where the water will not just run down the slope but will stay on the terrace watering the crops growing there, or in this case the crops that will be sown here.
I’m enjoying all this getting to know about the life here, so interesting, but also what it does to me is, it makes me think more, and ask more questions to how things are done back in Ireland, where things are on a far larger scale because of the size of the country and the larger population, but still comparisons may be made in certain areas.
One question I still have for Gozo, I still have not seen any cows, sheep, pigs, only three goats, and one chicken, where is all the smallholders livestock? Are they really all inside like I am told? And if so how are they fed. It seems most unusual not to see cows or other livestock on the land. I look forward to getting answers to those questions some day.
Even though I only wrote these observations the other day, I have gleaned more information today that I would like to add to this blog entry as it is relevant. As well as that, some of my dear blogger friends have asked me questions about the water situation in relation to farming and growing crops which I have tried to answer, but I am constantly learning more about the situation on Gozo and so I want to update my writing, it is still only my own observations, and they will change as I learn more about this beautiful and attractive island. Thank you to Lydia (Lyart) and Mary Tang for asking me questions which made me think deeper and search for more answers.
Ever since we came to the Maltese islands nearly two months ago I have been looking for signs of agricultural activity, and in particular have I wondered if there were people practicing permaculture, or growing vegetables organically. I have looked for signs, asked around and checked the internet, and slowly I am forming a picture of what is happening on this front here on Gozo. I think from what I gather from the papers that back in 2008 some people wanted to see Gozo turn into an ecological island, growing crops organically, preserving water and stone, but there are many challenges and they are not easily overcome, and I don’t think much progress has been made, but don’t take my word for it. I am only observing, one needs to be longer in a country to be sure of what the real story is, what the problems are, and what progress is…
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Even though I only wrote these observations the other day, I have gleaned more information today that I would like to add to this blog entry as it is relevant. As well as that, some of my dear blogger friends have asked me questions about the water situation in relation to farming and growing crops which I have tried to answer, but I am constantly learning more about the situation on Gozo and so I want to update my writing, it is still only my own observations, and they will change as I learn more about this beautiful and attractive island. Thank you to Lydia (Lyart) and Mary Tang for asking me questions which made me think deeper and search for more answers.
Ever since we came to the Maltese islands nearly two months ago I have been looking for signs of agricultural activity, and in particular have I wondered if there were people practicing permaculture, or growing vegetables organically. I have looked for signs, asked around and checked the internet, and slowly I am forming a picture of what is happening on this front here on Gozo. I think from what I gather from the papers that back in 2008 some people wanted to see Gozo turn into an ecological island, growing crops organically, preserving water and stone, but there are many challenges and they are not easily overcome, and I don’t think much progress has been made, but don’t take my word for it. I am only observing, one needs to be longer in a country to be sure of what the real story is, what the problems are, and what progress is being made. I did see quite a few crops even this early in spring, the grains such as barley or oats seem to have been harvested already. Large cabbages were in some of the small fields, as were plenty of onions. When we came early in March the vineyards were still looking very bare, but now they are beautifully green and flourishing despite the drought. Yes, it actually has not rained here since the New Year, you can see some of the wild plants are wilting, and growth is stunted. From what I notice there are a lot of small farms, or areas for growing crops, apparently there are not that many full time farmers on Gozo, but quite a few part-timers, people who have inherited farmland and work the land as a matter of course. It is very noticeable when travelling around the island that an effort is being made to utilise every bit of available land to grow crops. But today we had a chat with a local woman at Dwejra, she gave us information about the small farmer, the ordinary householder who will have a garden full of vegetables, will keep chickens for the eggs, will grow plenty of tomatoes, and some of those who have more land will even grow some grapes for wine making. She told us that when the produce was plentiful people would share out to family and friend, a practise which is age old and so sensible and to be appreciated.
The prickly pear is used in jam and liqueur making, the local wines are delicious.
Some of the soil is very stony, just like it is in Ireland! Of course seeing that it is a very dry climate here, the soil everywhere I looked was totally dried out, still the crops looked fresh and full of foliage, when items are planted the Gozitans make a bit of a pit and put the plant in there and water it, this keeps the plant more moist and preserves the water I guess. The darker the earth, the more fertile it is.
On the water questions, many of the people on Gozo use their own wells, but the water table is becoming lower and lower because of the lack of rain. The Maltese islands do have a problem with drought, they get their water for a certain percentage from wells and the rest from desalination using electricity to transform it. Small organic farms may still be possible but there are other factors to consider, when it does rain there is often flooding. A lot of area on the island is urbanised but not enough water is collected and stored in cisterns (I read recently). According to our local source the ground water is being depleted, which is not surprising when there is not enough rain to replenish it and at the same time there is more tourism and this industry uses a lot more water than does local living, what with swimming pools and many more people actually utilising water. I am sure that there is much more to be said and thought about with regard to water provision and regulation, that I do not know about. Gozo does have water reservoirs, and I read that there is constantly improvement being done. Check this document too http://www.fao.org/3/a-a0994e.pdf
This is a farm where, we were told are cows but we did not see any and were told that the cows are kept inside here on Gozo, not sure if this is true but I did not see more than two or three cows outside. Some of the milk is imported from Italy. There is excellent sheeps cheese produced on Gozo, a favourite of mine. I also saw goats but was not able, so far, to source goats milk.
There is great potential for permaculture, and for growing vegetables, crops and vines without using pesticides and fertilizers, imagine what it could mean for Gozo if it became know for its pure and healthy food production, as there is a growing market for such produce all over Europe, and as the Maltese islands would not be at a danger of becoming contaminated with genetically modified pollination once seeds are kept out of the islands, this could be an ecological paradise.
From inert fossils and lichens, to the very much alive and energetic lizards, bees and ants, and a huge range of other creatures, the flowers, trees, the amazing rocks and limestone buildings, the land here has such riches to offer for the eye and the mind. It will take me a while to analyse it all. I have taken so many photos while here, and I still have so much in mind to write about. I am still finding out about the agriculture, the organic and permaculture on Gozo. I’m also reading up about the local bees, the honey, the production of local wines, the economy of the land. I have met local people on buses and in shops and we have had great chats, I have also visited the libraries and talked with people at an art exhibition. I find the Gozitans very approachable, they are friendly people and welcoming to strangers.
And that was the story today, more wonderful creations to admire. While visiting the Ggantija Temples, of which I will write at some later stage, we experienced a wonderful outing, very interesting, the ancient works of mankind. And yet the eye did wander off to where the flowers, and the insects were. And here are some to share.
Our walk yesterday took us to the oldest watchtower on Gozo, the Xlendi watchtower. It was a nice walk to get to there, to our left the ever higher reaching stone terraces, and to our right a deep gorge, the Il-Kantra valley, sweeping down to the sea and lifting our heads up again to the cliffs on the other side of Xlendi bay, apart from the magnificent views a lot of wild plants and flowers made the walk interesting. Eventually we reached a plateau seemingly made partly out of pure white chalkstone, and partly out of other limestone types. Out towards the sea we saw the tower, it is lying just at the edge, and before the cliff steeply descends to the salt pans.
I read up a little about the watchtower. There are a number of them all over Malta and Gozo (I guess Comino too), they were built as a defence against the Ottoman invaders who would come and take the Gozitans bringing them home to use as slaves. I read that in 1551 there was a siege on Gozo, and 6000 Gozitans were taken into slavery. This is close to my heart because a small village back in Ireland, Baltimore, was raided back in 1631 by pirates from the Algiers, and the Ottoman Turks, they took nearly the whole village into slavery, the remainder of the inhabitants of Baltimore moved more inland, up river and established the town of Skibbereen, which is where I made my home many years ago.
The Xlendi tower dates back to 1650, it has been in continuous use both during the British rule and during the second world war, but it had become in disrepair and today it is being restored.
The cliff behind the tower reveals the salt pans which are as far as I know not in use anymore, but I could be wrong. They do look quite interesting, what a clever invention by humans to reap salt from the Mediterranean in this way. I wondered at the people working there and reaping the salt which the seawater left behind after the sun had done its drying out, it must have been hard work.
Looking back at the scenery in land from the tower the view is breath-taking, the rock formations brilliantly white, the vegetation scares but beautiful.
This is a walk I will not forget easily, nature at its most powerful, the winds were strong that day too. A walk that highlights a piece of social history, in a most beautiful natural setting, perfect for anyone.
I just have to share this with all of you. I’m not a sentimental cat person, but you just got to love these guys around here, they are awesome, the Maltese cat! Feral cats have been around humans for a long time, they thrive not only in the city but also in rural areas, and here on Gozo and on Malta you see quite a few of them, they walk the streets, and they are not as used to people as the domesticated cat obviously, they are used to looking after themselves, fending for themselves and finding food. I look at them and see character in their faces! In the park in Victoria (capital of Gozo) there are several cats that lounge about, one lovely ginger is my favourite there, it stands high on its legs, a graceful animal. (A lot of these Maltese feral cats seem to stand high on their legs I have noticed). You see them in all sort of shades from grey to white, but most beautiful are the patchy ones who have deep ginger, black and grey colours. They have buckets of attitude, and walk around as if the street is their backyard, I just love their confidence. Here are a few of the guys around the street where we are staying.
Below I would like to share with you my favourite of all time. It is this patchy cat, I only saw him/her today for the first time and hope to catch sight again, this cat is the type that you could write about with great imagination because that is what she/he does to you, makes you wonder how she/he gets her food, survives the night with all the other toms around. What an intelligent look in her/his face too, no wonder she is looking after herself so well. One of the most noticeable things about her is the long full tail, longer than any cat’s tail I have ever come across, she uses it to her full advantage to express how she feels, brilliant!
I hope you enjoyed my cat photos, I cannot for the life of me resist taking more pics of them, goodness me! 🙂
Today we ventured on one of the ‘hop on hop off’ busses which travels virtually the whole of the island. It was the first day we that the sky was overcast and there was a breeze which made it quite chilly travelling on top of the open bus, but the views were spectacular. I wanted in particular to see what sort of crops were produced on the land. I have got a much better idea about that now, I took many photos and will write about this particular subject in the near future, it is a subject close to my heart. We enjoyed the Craft village where we saw all sorts of crafts being worked, most interesting to me was the lace making, but more about that also in a later blog. So much to write about…. Meanwhile I hope you enjoy the photos.
